Weingut Wagner Stempel Heerkretz Riesling GG, Rheinhessen, Germany

瓦戈納酒莊赫爾克特級(jí)園雷司令白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3101

Picked between 19 September and 10 October, so over 21 days, and bottled in June of the following year, the 2022 Heerkretz Riesling GG shows a clear, pure and rocky yet intense and substantial bouquet. Though still closed and a bit untamed at this very early stage, the wine should be generously aerated if it is to be served soon. On the palate, the 2022 is a quite rich, lush and intense but also finessed and sustainably mineral-structured Heerkretz that represents the generous sun and heat of the vintage, whereas the crystalline and enormously saline finish adds a coolish, terroir-driven twist that defines the wine in the very end. This is a mouthfilling but fresh, lean and mineral Riesling of very promising quality. It shows fine and grippy tannins but no hints of bitter phenolics. 12.5% stated alcohol. Diam cork. Tasted in August 2023. I had this wine again in context with all of the 2022s from Daniel Wagner in January 2024, and this is my assessment 18 weeks later. The nose is intense and elegant, based on a serious mineral foundation, still a bit untamed and yeasty but also flinty and provided with an elegant, ripe Riesling aroma. On the palate, this is a vital, utterly mineral and tensioned, enormously saline and finely grippy Heerkretz with tight tannins, tactile impressions of crushed rocks and structurally some similarity with Pinot Noir. The 2022 is far too young to be drunk today, but it is a very promising Heerkretz.

Coming from a problematic, low-yielding vintage with a rainy summer but a very sunny September, the 2021 Heerkretz Riesling GG is based on the fruit picked between the 10th and 28th of October. This is reflected in a beautifully open and aromatic bouquet that is almost as generous as Gewurztraminer but speaks clearly of Riesling with a flinty accent. It is very clear, deep and intense on the super elegant and irresistible nose. Round, rich but savory and pure on the palate, with fine tannins intertwining with the saline acidity and herbal notes toward the finish, this is a beautiful Heerkretz with body and soul. It's generous and complex and made to be aged. Very long and pure, this is a picture-book Heerkretz. 13% stated alcohol. Diam cork. Tasted in August 2023.

From a picture-book vintage with an inhomogeneous flowering in later June and picked over two weeks between September 24 and October 7th (beautiful sunshine all the time), the Siefersheim 2020 Heerkretz Riesling GG opens with a discreet but deep and substantial, finely mineral or herbal and flinty/reductive bouquet with intensity and sur lies notes as well as those of broken stones. Round, refined and very elegant on the palate, with fine tannins and crystalline, saline acidity, this is a generous but classical Heerkretz of great substance and mouth-tickling grip and acidity. Fruity and non-fruity components are in superb balance here, and the finish is salivating. I wish I had some bottles of this wine in my cellar. Do not pass up buying it if you ever have the chance. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted from magnum in August 2023.

From another erratic vintage with problematic flowering, heat waves and peaks during summer and a rainy October, the golden-yellow colored Siefersheim 2019 Heerkretz Riesling GG may be based on a "brutal autumn" (Daniel Wagner), but it comes from fruit picked between September 30 and October 14. The nose is clear and still discreet, with herbal aromas and notes of crushed stones rather than generously aromatic fruit. Flinty notes underline a rather coolish performance on the nose that also reveals an aromatic, slightly stewed apricot, ginger and pear aroma. Full-bodied, lush and refined on the palate, the 2019 reveals fleshy and textured fruit with ripe acidity but less prominent stony or herbal features like 2020 or 2021. This is a more old-school Riesling with stunning length and crystalline and saline acidity paired with fine, phenolic grip and mineral tension. 13% stated alcohol. Diam cork. Tasted from magnum at the domaine in late August 2023.