The alcohol is high, giving the wine a peppery burn, but that’s part of its charm. Without such ripeness, the wine wouldn’t have the briary berry, sweet dried currant and leathery flavors. New oak, to the tune of 25%, adds an even richer layer of char. Quite an accomplishment. Drink with barbecue or big, hearty beef dishes.——S.H.(3/1/2012)—— 92