Casca Wines Branco Monte Cascas

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The 2009 BRANCO “MONTE CASCAS” from Douro is a blend of Codega do Larinho (50%), Rabigato (25%) and Gouveio (25%) aged for 6 months in new French oak. It is reasonably perky, clean and friendly, a charming wine that rounds its edges off with air and initially seems fatter in the mouth than it is, although it is not really that deep and fades a bit with air. While not particularly profound, it shouldn’t be expensive either and it can provide a lot of short term drinking pleasure. It may hold longer, but for best results, be safe and drink it young. Drink now-2012. These wines are part of Joe Veselko’s (formerly having worked at Pocas) Wine Project Portugal import venture, designed to showcase various Portuguese regions and grapes. The Casca winemakers are Frederico Gomes (formerly of Herdade da Malhadinha Nova) and Helder Cunha, who worked at Kent Rasmussen and Vinhos Borges. The Monte Cascas brand label means “pile of shells,” very loosely, the origin of the name for Cascais, the winemakers’ home town, not far from Lisbon. The Cape Roca brand label, with various maritime and nautical themes like “boat” and “fisherman,” references Portugal’s connection with the Atlantic Ocean, as Cape Roca is the westernmost point of the European continent. The Cape Roca wines are meant to be a little more approachable and accessible to the average consumer. They tend to be made in greater quantities and are often at lower price points—at the least, the ultra premium wines are under the Monte Cascas label. Finally, make sure you’re looking at the right region in the reviews. There may be more than one 2008 Casca Reserva Tinto, for example—one from Douro, one from Alentejo, etc.Importer: Laurel Importers, Bristol, R.I.; tel: (401) 396-9661