The 2012 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes from 0.33 hectares of vines planted between 1950 and 1980. It offers a neat and tidy bouquet: lime and citrus fruit with a soupcon of minerality, but tight and focused at the moment. The palate is finely balanced with light apricot and gentle spicy notes. It is keeps everything nicely focused and the finish demonstrates commendable length. Fine.
A hole had opened up in my itinerary when Philippe Colin had to cancel our rendezvous, (nothing personal – his 2012s had had to be racked and were not in representative condition.) What to do before my 5 p.m. meeting with Olivier Lamy? Walking back from Domaine Alain Chavy I popped my head round the door to see if Jean-Michel Charton was (a) there and (b)willing to show me his 2012s. As luck would have it, I was able to spend a profitable 90 minutes tasting through his whites. His wines have tended to be a little underrated out there in the market place. I have had more time for them than others and the 2012s attest to a producer that is improving with every passing vintage.
Importer: Winebow, New York, NY; Tel: (212) 255-9414; Fax: (212) 633-2372. www.winebow.com
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