The Voillot 2005 Volnay Vieilles Vignes smells of Kirsch, maraschino, and almond paste, awakens the palate with tart, fresh, juicy sour cherry fruit, then finishes long, sappy, startlingly clear and brisk, but with subtle underlying suggestions of raw red meat.
Jean-Pierre Charlot promotes a brisk, athletically lean and often downright rapier style on which opinions are bound to diverge. If it sets you salivating to imagine the brightness, transparency and cut of Riesling in the medium of Pinot Noir – characteristics I would ordinarily consider more appropriate to Volnay than Pommard – then do not miss this address! The wines had very recently been assembled (and in three instances bottled) when I tasted.
Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($26.00;84), 2005 Pommard ($50.00;86), Voillot’s 2005 Beaune Coucherias ($60.00;85-87+?), 2005 Pommard Clos Micot ($85.00;85-86).
Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966 9218
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