Kiona Vineyards Merlot, Columbia Valley, USA

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The small range of Kiona wines I had opportunity to sample last year were an interesting group, the most successful being also the least esoteric, namely a 2009 Merlot sourced from the estate. Cooling basil and mint, roasted tomato, toasted nuts and freshly ground coffee intrigue the nose, then combine with a juicy if discreet sense of red berry fruit on a polished palate. This spent two years in 60% new barrels, but the influence of the latter is remarkably restrained and the protracted finish is anything but dried out. It should prove deliciously versatile for at least the next 2-3 years, though in no way does it demand cellaring. Having planted Kiona Vineyards in 1975, John Williams and Jim Holmes count as Red Mountain pioneers, and the Williams family continues to bottle wines principally from their estate fruit, which is also coveted and purchased by a range of other wineries, most notably and prestigiously Betz Family. Tel. (509) 588-6716