Dugat had a special, 350 liter barrel (traditional Burgundian barrels are 228 liters) made for this newly purchased wine (Dugat-Py's parcel is the last one before entering Ruchottes-Chambertin). It reveals a dark ruby/purple color and intense aromatics of black raspberries, cassis, and oak spices. This hugely sweet, velvety-textured, harmonious, thick, muscular, and powerful wine is a spectacular example of a Gevrey premier cru. Elegant and graceful yet highly-concentrated and brutally strong, it also possesses a formidably long finish filled with supple tannins drowned in plump fruits. Drink it between 2003 and 2010.
Bernard Dugat, with the assistance of his charming wife, son, and daughter, has fashioned extraordinary 1996s, nothing new for this family who, since the 1993 vintage, has been crafting some of Burgundy's finest wines.
As I left Dugat-Py's cellars (her maiden name is Py and they added it to the estate's name to differentiate themselves from Bernard's famous cousin Claude) I felt that while his 1996's were superb, his 1995s were even better. With reflection, and with my notes from both tastings in hand, I realize that it comes down to the specific wines. Certain terroirs performed better in '95, and others in '96, most probably due to the weather which dramatically cut back yields in 1995
Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.
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