The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny exhibits a brooding bouquet of smoky blackberries, dark chocolate, grilled meats and coniferous forest floor. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, with terrific concentration and structural refinement, displaying more mid-palate amplitude than the Petite Chapelle but similarly striking energy and definition. This is another 2017 that has fully realized all the promise it showed from barrel.