Serious and huge, but talk about a ton of oak: this has a ton and a half, yielding sawdust-based aromas along with creamy plum notes. The thing is, once you realize that you’re all-in with the wood, it tastes good, feels good and finishes good. A 3M wine: mint, molasses and medicine. But in this style it’s done well. ——M.S.(12/15/2008)—— 89