The 2008 Chardonnay Amphitheater Block reveals serious notes of lemon butter, white peaches, crushed rocks, flowers, brioche, and pineapple. There is terrific fruit on the attack and mid-palate, wonderful underlying acidity buttressing its full body, an impressive texture, and a long finish. Remarkably, these are not grafted vines, but are directly planted, so it is amazing Varner has not had any problems with phylloxera, which usually destroys ungrafted vineyards. This cuvee should drink well for 5-8+ years.
Along with Mt. Eden, these are my favorite Chardonnays from the Santa Cruz Mountain appellation. Following a succession of remarkable wines over recent vintages, the 2008s are a superb success, combining the great complexity one finds in the finest white Burgundies with the ripe, exuberant, showy fruit of California. All possess wonderful minerality and acidity with only subtle differences between the different blocks. All are barrel-fermented with indigenous yeast from the vineyard, are put through full malolactic fermentation, and are aged 8 months in barrel.
Tel. (650) 321-4894; Fax (650) 321-4893
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