Weingut Emmerich Knoll Ried Loibenberg Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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8 The Knoll Gruner style is for a hint of steel, doses of minerality and not too much ornateness despite the wonderfully elaborate traditional bottle labels. The intense fruit, spice and peach character is balanced by acidity, a taut, nervy edge. It will certainly age for 5–6 years.——R.V.(12/31/2010)—— 94