If you like unfined, unfiltered, lusty, full-bodied, muscular Pinot Noirs from the Cote de Nuits, Ambroise is your man. I discovered this producer while researching my Burgundy book and I am delighted to see how successful he has become, not only in America, but also in the Burgundy circles of Europe. Ambroise makes some of the most extracted, deeply colored wines of Burgundy, but they are not meant to be sipped while sitting pool side. These are super-endowed, tannic "vins de garde" that will repay cellaring. The 1991 Nuits St.-Georges-Les Vaucrains offers a fragrant, spicy, herb, earthy, peppery, black fruit-scented nose, deep, medium to full-bodied, muscular flavors, and considerable tannin in the finish. Backward and in need of at least 4-5 years of cellaring, the underlying depth for balance is present. Drink it between 1998-2009. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC.