Wieninger Gruner Veltliner Preussen

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The mere 300 liters of Wieninger 2010 Gruner Veltliner Preussen will be worth looking out for, although most of that volume is destined for a single merchant in Munich who helped convince its author not to blend it away despite the tiny volume. A lovely nose of fresh lime, sour cherry, rhubarb, and pungent green herbs segues into a bright but extract-rich palate whose combination of stimulating tartness and cooling aura makes for terrific refreshment. Savory salinity and ineffable mineral intrigue add to the allure of a long, mouthwatering finish. This ought to be engrossing to follow over the better part of a decade (and Wieninger has at least determined to hold some back at the winery for future presentation or perhaps extremely limited sales). Fritz Wieninger’s 2010 collection – like that of 2009 – was literally cut-down by hail (and sadly, several important sites on the Nussberg were savaged again on the eve of my brief stay in Vienna this June). Not that the poor flowering and autumn desiccation – hallmarks that they are of 2010 as a whole – spared Viennese vineyards either. Wieninger’s entire Nussberg holdings produced only 2,000 bottles worth of Riesling, though Gruner Veltliner was thankfully less dramatically reduced; and the overall 2010 crop represented around 40% of mid-term average. (I shall bring readers up-do-date very shortly on the outstanding 2008 and 2009 collections from this estate, whose impressive recent successes are owed in part, notes Wieninger, to cellarmaster Luis Teixeira’s arrival, having ushered in an era of four-hand collaboration.) The difference in grape sugar between lesser- and top-sites was relatively small in 2010, and the cool weather on top of vine trauma from hail made for relatively low finished alcohol across the board. “It’s a very Austrian vintage,” says Wieninger, well aware that the combination of moderate alcohol and pronounced acidity to which he thereby refers has been far from the norm over the past dozen or so years. “I de-acidified selectively, but not at all when it came to Riesling,” he relates, signaling a reversal of the approach taken by many growers, “because I decided that with this grape I could instead play a bit with residual sugar. And I de-acidified a bit even with my reds, otherwise the pHs were so low it would have inhibited malo.” Due to a late arrival on my part for our meeting, I omitted Wieninger’s latest bottlings of Chardonnay from my tasting.Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620