Dominique Piron Domaine de Combiaty Brouilly, Beaujolais, France

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Piron’s 2007 Brouilly Domaine de Combiaty – one of numerous 2007s not yet assembled or not finished malo when I visited in 2008 (and hence not reported on in issue 178) – displays deep blueberry fruit, fragrant herbs, and underlying suggestions of salt and wet stone. It is relatively light-weight but satisfyingly juicy and strikes me as best enjoyed over the next 12-18 months. Dominique Piron and his American oenologist wife Kristine-Mary have been both experimental and increasingly successful in recent vintages, and last year they significantly expanded their acreage. (Certain domaines or partnerships within their holdings are separately designated on the labels, but all bear the inscription “Dominique Piron” as well.) Availability in the U.S. has been a bit limited as yet, though, and I could not get retail prices on many of their 2007 crus – several of which I already reviewed in issue 178 – while the 2008 (a couple of lots still in malo when I visited in April) have for the most part yet to be released at the winery.Importers:Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Williams Corner Wine, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 566 7079