Dominique Piron Domaine de Combiaty Brouilly, Beaujolais, France

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：6340

Piron’s 2009 Brouilly Domaine de Combiaty is loaded with ripe blueberry and blackberry mingled with black pepper and salted beef marrow; is silken smooth; and finishes with generous refreshment. The only thing one could ask for here is additional complexity – some of which may come – and while it is practically irresistible in tank, I certainly would not hesitate to plan on enjoying the bottled product over a 2-3 year period. Dominique Piron – for more about whom consult my report in issue 184 – did not begin harvesting his 2009s until September 7 and then worked at it for two weeks (even though his crop was radically reduced by the hail that afflicted nearly every commune in which he grows grapes). Despite the warm weather and reduced crop, only a few of Piron’s individual lots – and none of his finished blends – exceeded 14% alcohol. He segregated an unprecedented number of different Morgons from 2009, but this isn’t merely a case of his next-door neighbor Jean-Marc Burgaud’s practices rubbing off: the distinctive quality of Piron’s five cuvees justifies their number – indeed, this represents far and away the finest Piron collection I have tasted (granting that the assembled wines were still all in tank when I visited in April) and a confirmation that this is among the region’s outstanding, top value-delivering addresses.Importers include Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Williams Corner Wine, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 566 7079