Azelia’s 2003 Barolo, a medium red, comes across as clenched and somewhat rustic. It reveals smoke, earthiness, menthol and red cherries in a powerful, deep style, with excellent length although the coarse tannins clamp down a little on the finish. Bottle age will help, but to a limited extent. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2013. Azelia remains a great source for relatively well-priced Barolos. In particular, the San Rocco, from a vineyard in Serralunga, is often one of the region’s top bottlings as it is again in 2003. Proprietor Luigi Scavino has a new Barolo this year, made from the Margheria vineyard, also in Serrlaunga.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411