Some of Cécile Tremblay's wines in this vintage are decidedly reticent and shut down, but the 2013 Echézeaux du Dessus Grand Cru is still open for inspection, bursting from the glass with a lavish bouquet of plums, cassis, smoked duck and dark chocolate, followed by a full-bodied, ample and expansive palate with excellent concentration at the core, velvety structuring tannins and a long, vibrant finish. In the unlikely event that any readers possess large numbers of bottles, trying one now wouldn't be a crime.
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