Symington Family Estates Tinto Vale Do Bomfim Dow

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The 2009 Tinto “Vale Do Bomfim” (Dow), which is a multi-quinta wine, is a very different blend this year than the 2008. It combines Tinta Barroca (30%--markedly down from last year), 15% Tinta Roriz (also markedly down from last year), 25% each of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca (markedly up from last year) and 5% Tinta Cao, all aged for 10 months in French oak. Fruity and sometimes showing bursts of tannin early in its life, with some nice acidity, although not a lot of concentration, it has charm and structure. It had an earthy purity I liked a lot in contrast to its big brother, the Bomfim Reserva. Granting that it is not the most concentrated wine, and may not hold very long at peak, it offers some nice bang for the buck this year. Drink now-2014. Importer: Premium Port Wines, San Francisco, Ca.; tel. (415) 554-9920