Rudi Pichler Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kollmutz, Wachau, Austria

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The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kollmutz opens with voluminous, estrous aromas of dried peach and wood smoke, then fills the mouth with peach, nut oils, brown spices and brine. For all of its evidence of extreme ripeness, there is only a trace of heat. Still it comes off a bit rough-hewn when compared with the ostensibly lesser “Terrassen” bottling.Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($23.00; 85)Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700