Weingut Clemens-Busch Falkenlay Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Auslese Erste Lage, Mosel, Germany

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The 2006 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Auslese Falkenlay offers another instance to be unsure where the pungency of botrytis leaves off and smoky, crushed stone pungency of minerality (if that’s even a proper word for it) begins. Apple jelly, glazed pineapple, and brown spices inform an almost thickly- rich, polished palate and this wine’s very sweet finish certainly clings. This still had fermentative aromas to work off when I tasted it, and it will take years to work off its sugar. Worth revisiting, it will probably keep for more than 20 years, though with what sort of complexity I can’t pretend to say, as unformed as its personality was early on.Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienburg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which make him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Busch has been bottling nobly sweet Riesling since 1999, but never before – he hastens to inform me – in quantities remotely like those that nature imposed on him in 2006: Nine Auslesen, three Beerenauslesen, and a T.B.A.! Like Reinhard Lowenstein (and in a similar style), Busch is best-known inside Germany for his dry (or near-dry) single-site wines, which are not released for more than a year after harvest. (In fact, most of the 2006s had not finished fermenting yet when I visited last summer.)Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888-274-4312