Grilled pineapple, soursop, coconut, and butterscotch inform the nose of Busch’s 2007 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Auslese Falkenlay. With more obvious caramelization and a stickier sense of sweetness than the other Auslesen in this year’s collection, this opulent and tropically-rich Riesling is thus somewhat less fun to drink. But whether it will become shapelier and more complex with time remains to be seen. Certainly the sheer richness and generosity of fruit here and the wine’s sheer length bode will for more than a decade’s cellaring. Clemens Busch – among the Mosel’s few organic vintners, and the undisputed champion of the Lower Mosel’s steep Pundericher Marienburg – is also rapidly demonstrating that he is simply one of the collective Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer’s exceptional talents, not to mention stylistically free spirits. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. Nature thrust on him in 2006 an unprecedented 9 Auslesen (many distinguished only by number), 3 Beerenauslesen, and single T.B.A. (most of which were reviewed in issue 179). In 2007, an at least slightly more normal – not to mention more marketable – balance of dry-tasting (though not always legally trocken) wines was restored, but success, Busch insists, was possible only by dint of great patience and then, when the time was ripe for picking, in great haste. A considerable number of overtly nobly sweet wine was picked in the process, as there was no lack of botrytis in this fungicide-free zone.Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312
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