The best bottle of this I've had (and I've had plenty), Usseglio's 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul is a blockbuster and one of the true stars of this vintage. Almost all Grenache (there's a small part of Syrah and Cinsault) that was harvest between September 1-13, partially destemmed and aged in both tank and foudre, this massive, voluptuous effort is almost overflowing with notes of ground herbs, chocolate dusted meats, black fruits and licorice. Showing none of the negative traits of the vintage, with beautiful purity and freshness, sweet tannin, and a great finish, enjoy this utterly hedonistic beauty over the coming 4-5 years.

One of the vintage’s most profound wines, the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul has a dense purple color as well as a glorious nose of blackberries, licorice, smoke, and some roasted meats and dried herbs. Amazingly opulent, even voluptuous, with extraordinary purity, a huge tactile impression on the palate, but not heavy by any means, this is a stunning Chateauneuf du Pape from ancient vines made with 95% Grenache and the rest Cinsault and Syrah. Production is about 8,000 bottles, and the wine is bottled after spending its entire life in epoxy-lined tanks, so what one gets is the essence of the three separate terroirs it comes from – Les Serres, Guigasse, and La Crau. Anticipated maturity: now-2020+. I asked the Usseglios what the most abundant years were over the last decade, and was told they were 2000, followed by 1999, 1998, 2001, 2003, and the smallest crop of all, 2004.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Using Aieul, an old word for grandfather, Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio pay homage to grandpa Pierre. They have made a ripe and juicy wine, with red fruits, some touch of wood and a light hint of dry tannins to finish. Imported by Wines of France. ——R.V.(12/31/2005)—— 86