Half the stems were left in the fermentation for this, incidentally. Bize’s 2008 Savigny-les-Beaune Les Talmettes – from a small cru adjacent to Vergelesses and sharing the southeastern exposition of the southern edge of that site – offers a bright, tart melange of sour cherry and red currant suffused with saliva-inducing salinity. Suggestions of floral perfume add inner-mouth allure to this very-2008 Pinot, and a bit of tannic roughness – no great impediment to its long finish – may well have dissipated with a bit more time elapsed post-bottling. I would expect this high-toned, high-strung Pinot to be worth following for 15 years.
Patrick Bize’s 2008s did not finish their malos until they were one year old, a statistic only slightly less startling given the vintage than it would otherwise be. (By contrast – and again, not all that exceptionally for their vintage – the 2009s had, despite Bize’s notoriously cold cellars, already done malo by February … the February after harvest, that is!) This domaine has long and with good reason counted as one of its village’s top performers – if not number one – and while its collections in 2008 and 2007 do not approach the superb quality achieved here in 2005, young Bize wines – like the man himself – are lean, sinewy, frequently understated yet incisive, and have a habit of making fools of their critics. They often “come from behind” in ostensibly “l(fā)esser” vintages, and not only the 2008s here but also the surprisingly energetic, focused 2007s should prove fascinating and rewarding to follow over the coming decade.
A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70
粵公網(wǎng)安備 44030502006249號