Weingut Emmerich Knoll Gruner Veltliner Auslese, Wachau, Austria

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The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Auslese smells of sweet pea, mint, brown spices, celery root, and a whiff of smoke, all in a manner reminiscent of Gewurztraminer. Creamy yet rich, buoyant, and only slightly sweet on the palate, it finishes with sizzling, smoky-sweet and peppery notes. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700