Weingut R & A Pfaffl Zeiseneck Gruner Veltliner, Weinviertel, Austria

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Pfaffl’s 2007 Gruner Veltliner Zeiseneck – picked early October – combines lime, lentil, green beans and spinach for a 12% alcohol wine of crunchy brightness yet subtle nut oil richness, like a freshly dressed salad, finishing with infectious juiciness and faint but stimulating bitterness. Temporarily, the Provence of Ontario appears to be the only North American importer for the wines of Pfaffl, a circumstance that needs to change.