Surprisingly light in body and restrained in flavors for this address, Serafin's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin features bright red raspberry and tart purple plum fruit with hints of smoked meat, black tea, and game. Juicy and saline, it offers a satisfying, palate-cleansing and savory finish. I would plan on enjoying it over the next 2-3 years. Vineyard manicure and green harvesting – to hear Christian Serafin tell it – were keys to success in 2006, and he managed to achieve very ripe results. Fascinatingly, these include both wines that are quintessentially 2006, and some that seem destined to capture a combination of structure and energy reminiscent of 2005. Serafin, by the way, is a grower who explicitly recognizes the challenges in steering a course between concentration and elegance, rather than taking the latter for granted as part of his and his vines' birthright.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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