Dry and focused in acids, the wine shows the balance and complexity of the vineyard, as well as its ageworthiness. It’s very young now, with immature raspberry, cola, rum punch, balsamic, mushroom and Asian spice flavors, but decanting and slow warming in the glass help elevate it. Nonetheless, your best bet is the cellar. Best after 2008, and for many years after, depending on how old you like your wines.——S.H.(2/1/2008)—— 96