The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon impresses for its layers of dark, plush fruit. Hints of cassis, grilled herbs, tobacco and cedar develop in the glass, adding further complexity and depth. Firm tannins frame the long finish. This is a very classic and beautiful Cabernet. In 2008 the blend is 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, sourced from a number of sites, including Somerston, DeSantis, Lamoreaux and Snowden. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2028. David Ramey is one of the few California winemakers who thinks in terms of structure, not just flavor, something that sets him apart from many of his peers. All of the wines I tasted at Ramey’s cellar just outside Healdsburg were terrific. I also sampled a number of older wines, all of which have held up very well. Best of all, most of the wines remain very fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. My visit ended with the 2001 Cabernet Jericho Canyon Road, which was stunning. At age 10 it remains an infant. I only wish I owned it. The next best thing is Ramey’s new Annum bottling from 2009 forward, the vintage in which the main vineyard source switched to Shartsis, a parcel in Rutherford close to Dana Estates’s Helms vineyard. The Pedregal, from a vineyard in Oakville, is perhaps even better, but it also costs twice as much. The appellation Chardonnays spend 12 months in oak, ranging from 20-25% new, while the vineyard designates spent 18 months in oak, with a higher percentage of new barrels.Tel. (707) 433-0870, www.rameywine.com

Deep ruby, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, opens with aromas of cedar, old leather, graphite, star anise and fenugreek with meaty notions, dusty earth, iron and a core of dried red and black cherries and berries. It's medium-bodied, silky and smooth in the mouth, swelling out to intact, ripe black fruits with layers of chocolate and spice. It has very plush, ripe, pixelated tannins and good freshness, finishing long and savory. This is in a beautiful spot for drinking right now! 4,678 cases were made.