In the wine’s youth, the aroma of new oak dominates, with that smoky, minty, spicy-char note. But in the mouth the fruit explodes in intensely ripe black currants and milk chocolate. The tannins are rich and softly complex. A complete Cabernet that is luscious now, but has the balance to develop, if you can keep your hands off it. ——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 94