The 2001 Gevrey-Chambertin Village is drinking beautifully at age 21, offering up aromas of cherries, berries and sweet forest floor, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy palate that's rich and concentrated, framed by the vintage's telltale structuring tannins that continue to contribute some back-end grip. On opening, it's a hearty, characterful wine, but it's only after 30 minutes that it begins to reveal all the plenitude and style—perhaps best characterized in this case as "noble rusticity"—of a great bottle. Anyone who has shaken hands with Claude Dugat will immediately understand what this wine tastes like.