Curiosity got the better of me, and I opened a bottle of the Dugat family's 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Village from my cellar in Beaune. It is evolving very gracefully indeed, and unlike not a few wines from this vintage, it hasn't shut down hard or entered an awkward phase. Offering up aromas of red cherries, cassis, violets and sweet soil tones, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and dynamic, with supple tannins, lively acids and a bright, precise finish. Marrying vintage-typical depth with rather more unusual mouthwatering freshness, it is a terrific success.
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