Guffens-Heynen Pouilly-Fuisse La Roche, Maconnais, France

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Readers who continue to be label-conscious shoppers, ignoring the finest Maconnais producers, need a wake-up call. There are at least a half-dozen superb Maconnais estates making wines that rival and often surpass many Cote d'Or premier and grand crus. The young Belgian, Jean-Marie Guffens-Heynen is one of them. The deeper 1991 Pouilly-Fuisse-La Roche exhibits a provocative bouquet of wet stones, and rich, medium to full-bodied, apple-like flavors. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers, including Ideal Wine & Spirits, Medford, MA and Barrique Wine Co., Chicago, IL.