Bertheau fashioned the terrific 2004 Chardonnay Ethos from three vineyards, Canoe Ridge Estate (55%), Cold Creek (35%), and Wahluke Slope (10%). Aromatically bursting with spices, this medium to full-bodied wine reveals spicy pears in the attack that build in intensity through the mid-palate and then return with a vengeance in its long sappy finish. A highly concentrated white, it is satin-textured, sappy, and wonderfully balanced. Drink it between 2007 and 2015. Tel. (800) 267-6793; www.ste-michelle.com