Nicholas Cole Cellars 'Camille' Red, Columbia Valley, USA

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The 2003 Camille is the product of a very hot vintage. Composed of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, and 15% Cabernet Franc, it is dark ruby/purple-colored. It offers an attractive array of toast, fresh herbs, tobacco, black currants and blackberry. This is followed by an intensely flavored wine with light tannins and a supple texture. The wine is slightly compressed in the finish but there is enough structure for the wine to evolve and fill out over the next 3-5 years. It should drink well through 2030. Tel. (509) 525-0608; www.nicholascolecellars.com

Tight, tart, racy and stylish; this Bordeaux blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 15% Cab Franc is the best yet from this young winery, a neighbor of Leonetti. Tart, primary fruit sets up a foundation that is substantial and tannic. There’s plenty of power here; it just needs more time.——P.G.(10/1/2006)—— 91