The lovely 2015 Chardonnay Nuits-Blanches au Bouge wafts from the glass with a youthful bouquet of caramelized citrus rind, buttered apples and smoke, framed by toasty new oak. On the palate, the wine is the richest and ripest of these three whites from Jim Clendenen, sapid and nicely concentrated with a glossy attack and a lingering, apricot-tinged finish.