Avantis Estate Mavri Koudoura

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The 2008 Mavri Koudoura (a clone of Mandilaria) was aged in new oak, which is quite obvious on the wine, giving it a rich and creamy feel at first, but it is not long before the good depth and structure assert themselves here. The acidity gives it a certain crispness and the tannins provide grip and intensity. A bit disjointed at the moment, it gives some signs of turning into something more balanced and quite attractive in the cellar. Its depth and serious backbone should balance each other out nicely. As the fruit poked up, I thought this was also becoming quite tasty. It has substantial potential for improvement. There were 1,000 bottles produced. Drink now-2020. Avantis is a family run boutique that makes small production wines. The first wine debuted in 1994. Owned by Apostolos Mountrichas, its name references the prehistoric Greek tribe that immigrated to the Evia area 2100-1900 B.C.Importer: Cava Spiliadis, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 728-0022

The 2007 MAVRI KOUDOURA (a clone of Mandilaria) was oak aged, which, combined with the acidity, gives this a sort of sour raspberry-vanilla laced nuance. It is nicely constructed and tightly wound, with an elegant mid-palate and some grip on the finish. The crisp and slightly tart demeanor overtakes the vanilla for the most part, eventually giving this wine an interesting, but not particularly charming demeanor. I suspect this wine will draw divergent viewpoints, but it will be interesting to see where it goes with some age. There were just 100 cases produced. Drink now-2017. Importer:Cava Spiliadis, Astoria, N.Y.; tel: (718) 728-0022

The 2006 MAVRI KOUDOURA (a clone of Mandilaria) is a bit earthy and bright, with an elegant mid-palate and well integrated tannins. It has a sort of raspberry coffee note on the average finish. A bit rustic, this still has its moments, and it shows the ability to evolve and improve with air as the tannins become more powerful and the flavors more developed. It is intriguing and different, but certainly won’t remind anyone of a modern, sweet, fleshy fruit bomb, for better or worse. Drink now-2016. Importer: Cava Spiliadis, Astoria, N.Y.; tel: (718) 728-0022