The 2007 5 Fincas is a blend of 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Garnacha, 20% Merlot, 15% Syrah and 15% Carinena that is sourced from the wineries’ five vineyards as the name suggests, each with its own terroir. It is aged for 20 months in fine American oak barrels and Allier French oak. It has a voluminous bouquet with plump dark plum, boysenberry, liquorice and a touch of fresh dates, all with just a slight smudge of alcohol. The palate is medium-bodied with a soft, grainy-textured entry. There are generous notes of dark plums and dates as well as a touch of toffee and vanilla, while the finish is showing just a little too much oak and heat. Drink now-2016.
My first visit to Emporda was to Castillo Perelada, one of the driving forces behind the resurgence of viticulture in this region, where I undertook a comprehensive tasting of both present and past releases. Wine has been made at the Castillo since medieval times. Then in 1923, wealthy businessman Miguel Mateu bought the estate and he sought to revive winemaking tradition both here and in Emporda itself. I tasted the wines with his grandson Javier Suque. He explained how they are using satellite technology to map the vineyard, to such an extent that it made Bordeaux seem Luddite in comparison. It was an interesting set of wines with notable successes and others that missed the mark, and it was also fascinating to taste a vertical of the “Ex Ex” series of experimental wines that customers can subscribe to. The concept here is not to create the ultimate wine each year, but to try new things, toy with varieties and picking dates, to learn from experience. As you can see, the results I found were hit and miss, but I applaud someone who tries out new things and those that do subscribe are in for a ride. Following this, I was afforded an illuminating vertical of previous vintages, some of which have been rated by The Wine Advocate in previous issues. This vertical led me to one simple conclusion: Finca Garbet works best as a pure Syrah, as was the case in 2005 and 2007. The addition of Cabernet Sauvignon seems to knock it off balance and is distracting. I also tasted through a vertical of Castillo Perlada’s experimental “Ex Ex” series. The first two Ex Ex wines were sourced from the “Malaveina” vineyard.
Importer: Perelada Comercial, NY; www.perladacomercial.com
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