Domaine Philippe Delesvaux Coteaux du Layon Selection de Grains Nobles, Loire, France

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Delesvaux’s 2006 Coteaux du Layon Selection de Grains Nobles is scented with ripe peach, green tea, quince preserves, and salted caramel. With a striking combination of juicy brightness and confitured richness, its torrified elements (including singed sugar cookies) beautifully balanced by salt, quinine, and cooling herbal notes, this displays a levity and lusciousness are rare in its vintage, and indeed in today’s Coteaux du Layon as a whole. Notes of candied orange peel accompany the fruit preserves, herbal essences, caramelization and salinity in a lingering, uplifting, indeed – despite the wine’s huge residual sugar – downright invigorating finish. This should be worth following for at least 25 years. Thirty-plus year veteran and former Parisian Philippe Delesvaux is one of the Layon’s most respected vintners and a pioneer in rendering without compromise high-must nobly sweet wines from organically farmed vines.I know of no current importer for the wines of Delesvaux.