Quinta do Infantado Vintage Port, Douro, Portugal

尹帆塔多年份波特酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：4052

The 2017 Vintage Port is a field blend from old vines coming in at just 52 grams of residual sugar, meaning that it is very dry—in fact, well out of the norm and about as low as I've seen. This was the final blend, but a couple of weeks from bottling when seen. A step up on the 2016, this shows more intensity, more depth and more flavor. It is still lighter styled in the context of the vintage, but it has serious structure. With air, this becomes a bit more burly, but it is always going to be accessible relatively young. It should hold better than the 2016, nonetheless.

The 2016 Vintage Port is a field blend from old vines coming in at just 79 grams of residual sugar, meaning that it is dry (although not as extreme as the 2017 this issue). When last seen, this was a tank sample. It is now in bottle. It opens too simply, without much concentration or structure. Some aeration really helps it flesh out in the glass and acquire more flavor. It shows off better structure then too. This is still a lighter-styled Vintage Port that doesn't seem to require a lot of aging, but its fresh feel and lively demeanor help it along. You can drink this young, but it should hold reasonably well too.

The 2015 Vintage Port is a field blend from old vines (50+ years) that comes in at 85 grams per liter of residual sugar. This is lighter styled, fresh and easy, but with fine intensity of flavor. The freshness just now is actually rather glorious. Its fine acidity lifts the fruit on that flavorful finish, but it does lack some concentration for a top VP. This producer does tend to emphasize elegance in general and the vintage does as well. Its structure is average. This is a great deal of fun, but I'm not sure it will develop much. That said, its acidity will help preserve it and it is very tasty—impossible to dislike.

The 2013 Vintage Port is an old vines field blend bottled in 2015 with 73 grams per liter of residual sugar. Lacking the concentration and richness of the 2011, also reviewed, this is nonetheless very appealing for its elegance and its crisp finish. The structure is still serious, too, with focus and penetration on the finish. Very tight, this needs time in the cellar. The tannins were not overly hard, initially, but the structure became more assertive with aeration, as tends to be the case with young Port. After several days open, it was much more interesting, with more assertive structure and a slightly tart finish that should serve it well as it ages. It is a smaller wine than the 2011 (also reviewed), but it has many merits, including its fine focus and penetration on the finish. There were 6,116 bottles produced, plus some smaller and larger formats.

The 2011 Vintage Port, bottled in 2013, is all from a single quinta. It comes in with 83 grams per liter of residual sugar. Full in the mouth with ripe and chunky fruit, this is surprisingly approachable on opening and quite delicious just now, but it doesn't stay that way with air or over several days. Starting with only average concentration, it ends with lifted fruit on the finish, enlivening the wine after the chunky beginning. It drinks beautifully; it is fresh, enticing and delectable. More importantly, it fleshes out in the glass and takes over the palate. Then, the power takes over. It becomes rather crisp and biting. The fruit is nice, but this is more about the structure. It is elegant and balanced, not big and clumsy (a good description of the winery's stylistic goals). I'd give it more time before diving it, even though it seems approachable at first taste. There is a serious backbone lurking underneath and this wine changes with every 30 minute time interval. There were 5,757 bottles produced, plus some alternative format sizes.