Many white Burgundies from this vintage already have one foot in the grave, but Vincent Dancer's 2005 Meursault Les Grands Charrons is aging beautifully and indeed starts out a touch reduced, opening in the glass to reveal attractive aromas of crisp orchard fruit, sesame, pastry cream and confit citrus. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's a textural, layered wine that remains dynamic and vibrant as it closes in on its twentieth birthday.