The Tenuta di Biserno 2017 Biserno is hushed at first, almost sottovoce, and it builds its intensity carefully and slowly one little decibel at a time. The aromas expand, the acidity brightens and the tannins flesh out as the wine opens in the glass. These elements come together with narrowing focus. This is a seamless and incredibly smooth blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot that offers a full gamut of dark fruit, spice and cured tobacco. Given ample time to open, the generosity of the bouquet is not necessarily matched by the mouthfeel that ultimately feels a bit pinched or short on the close. This is a common characteristic I saw in many of the other blended Tuscan reds made in this scorching hot vintage.
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