The 2009 Clos de Vougeot is a tightly wound, focused wine. There is plenty of aromatic definition and length in the fruit, but today it is the tannins that dominate the balance. This is an especially tight 2009 that needs considerable bottle age. Still, all of the ingredients are in place for this to develop into a beautiful wine in a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034. I tasted a wide range of wines with winemaker Claudie Jobard and president Pierre-Antoine Rovani, one of my predecessors at The Wine Advocate. Remoissenet has undergone a significant face lift under the guidance of Rovani and a new ownership team headed by a group of American investors. today's wines are made in an overt, fruit-forward style. Overall I found most of the best reds to be those made from estate owned fruit, while the wines made from purchased fruit are in most cases still works in progress, not surprising considering how much has changed here in a relatively short time span. Remoissenet favors low yields in the vineyards (estate vineyards are farmed biodynamically), harvests late and vinifies with long but gentle fermentations. The estate is not shy in using new oak to give the wines additional volume, including 100% new barrels for all the Grand Crus. Many of the entry-level 2009s were bottled early to preserve softness. I tasted the remaining wines from barrel.Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515, United Wine and Spirits, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 696-9463, D.G.L. Distributors, Northbrook, IL; tel. (847) 291- 1110, The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460
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