Lignier's 1983 Clos de la Roche is a success story from a nefarious year. While most 1983s reek of rot and have dried out to reveal rustic, rough tannins, this ruby/amber-colored wine has pure sweet black fruit aromas. It is medium-bodied, fresh, and extremely well-made, revealing ripe black cherries and cedar flavors in its character. Projected maturity: now.