The 2008 Dedicato a Walter shows good varietal character in its dark, sumptuous fruit, licorice, mocha, espresso and grilled herbs. Here, too, I don’t find the level of detail and nuance that elevate the best years. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2023. This is a mixed set of wines from Poggio al Tesoro. The 2008 reds aren’t quite at the level readers have become accustomed to in recent, stronger vintages.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620