Alice et Olivier de Moor Bourgogne Chitry, Burgundy, France

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From a town that chose generations ago not to be part of the Chablis appellation, the De Moors’ 2006 Bourgogne Chitry exhibits lovely, piquant lemon, toasted praline, tangerine zest, ginger and cardamom in a surprisingly rich, sultry matrix and finishes with satisfying length and a mineral-broth sense of rich substantiality that belies its appellation and the youthful age of these vines. Nor does this betray its 14% alcohol. I would plan to enjoy it over the next two years, though. With only a 35 hectoliter per hectare average yield, and given batches of high-alcohol Saint Bris and Chablis stuck with more than merely awkward residual sugar (as of last winter), one could hardly call 2006 a commercially successful year for the De Moors. But their best wines from this vintage are nonetheless admirable.Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9812