Alice et Olivier de Moor Bourgogne Chitry, Burgundy, France

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Chardonnay shows its inimitable personality in the 2010 Bourgogne Chitry. Brightness, minerality and a sense of textural vividness make it seem as though the wine jumps from the glass. The Bourgogne is naturally richer and more voluminous than the two Aligotes, with just as much sheer class, if not more. Green pears, apples and white peaches come together beautifully in a Bourgogne that over achieves its humble appellation. The purity of the fruit is nothing less than striking. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Once again, I was completely floored by the wines I tasted from Alice and Olivier de Moor. These are some of the most compelling, sincere wines readers will find anywhere in Burgundy. Prices remain exceedingly fair, the much larger problem is finding the wines, as most of those in the know are keenly aware of just how special these bottles are. Olivier de Moor told me the greatest risk in 2010 was the onset of botrytis as temperatures remained cold even during the harvest. Sorting was therefore of the essence. All of the de Moor wines are vinified and aged in barrel, yet there is no sense of oak whatsoever. When I drink wines from Chablis, de Moor is always at or near the top of my list among favorite producers. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191