Alice et Olivier de Moor Bourgogne Chitry, Burgundy, France

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The De Moors’ 2007 Bourgogne Chitry is one of those expressions of vintage acidity that almost demands sunglasses. Yet the brightness here has the direction of a searchlight, conveying a more refined sense of citrus and citrus zest, along with fresh apple; a lip-smacking salinity to go with the impressions of chalk and fruit pit; and a long if lean line of a finish. There is no question about this wine’s underlying extract or uncompromising concentration, and it should prove well worth following for at least 3-4 years. Beginning their harvest in mid-September, the De Moors made two passes on nearly every parcel to adapt to irregular ripening that was a legacy of hail. The upshot was thus another labor-intensive and low-yielding vintage, but there the similarities with 2006 end, as the character of the De Moor 2007s is strikingly different; and they are more consistently excellent. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191