The 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Montceau is showing beautiful, unwinding in the glass with a bouquet of orange oil, lemon zest, pear and dried white flowers that's more youthfully reticent than the En Remilly, framed by a light touch of reduction. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, chiseled and tensile, with a beautifully chalky, mineral profile. This is well worth seeking out, and it will reward a bit of bottle age.
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