Still young and jumpy, but the ripeness and pedigree of this Penedes bruiser is beyond reproach. It’s big, bold and deep as a mountain lake, with black plum, bullion and a pile of blackberry on the palate. Tons of extract and tannins make this inky, saturated heavyweight a wine to ponder. For fans of forward, beefy reds. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. ——M.S.(4/1/2006)—— 91