The 2004 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Im Weingebirge comes from a vineyard in which most years but not this, a Smaragd is picked as well. This Federspiel smells of ripe peaches and comes onto the palate with considerable richness, a satiny texture, and a suggestion in its creaminess of malo-lactic fermentation. Roasted root vegetables, pit fruits, toasted nuts, lentil, and sheer stony mineral notes make up the layers of this veritable mouthful of a Federspiel, and its low-tone finish reverberates impressively. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300